Ode to Asparagus

For me there is no better way to eat asparagus than with my fingers, dripping with butter and lemon juice and seasoned generously with sea salt and freshly ground pepper! And with the growing season for this most unusual of vegetables being a short one – mid/late September to just after Christmas -we make the most of it while we can.

For the last few weeks I’ve had to be at my local farmers market extra early to be sure not to miss out on the first of the season’s crop. The vendor there has new beds so the spears are thin and spindly. These are what I enjoy the most although I know others prefer the fattest spears they can find. Each week though the supply has gradually increased and I can now have an extra half hour in bed.

Other than butter and lemon, asparagus goes with many other wonderful flavours which include but are not limited to:

anchovies ▪ avocado ▪ bacon, prosciutto and pancetta ▪ eggs ▪ fennel ▪ garlic ▪ hollandaise sauce ▪ mushrooms ▪ mustard ▪ olive oil ▪ olives ▪ Parmesan, gruyere and goats cheeses ▪ potatoes ▪ smoked salmon, scallops ▪ tarragon, parsley, rosemary ▪ toast ▪ tomatoes ▪ walnuts, pinenuts.

Use asparagus as soon as possible after it is picked or purchased. The best way to store it until you need it is to stand it upright in a container with a little water in the bottom and cover the whole with a plastic bag. If the spears get wet they will spoil rapidly. 

When you are ready to cook it, snap off the woody ends (each spear will break at the right point between the tough end and tender part) or, if you prefer them all the same length, trim with a knife and even peel the end with a vegetable peeler. Personally I leave this to the restaurants.

Finally wash the spears well in cold water to remove any grit or sand.

Blanch asparagus using one of two methods:

1/ Stand upright in an asparagus basket so only the thick ends are in salted, simmering water. Cover and steam.

2/ Bring a shallow, wide pan of salted water, about an inch deep, to the boil and lay the asparagus spears flat in a single layer. Simmer gently until the asparagus is just tender.

Whichever method you choose drain and serve the asparagus immediately or if you wish to use it cold, refresh it in iced water to halt the cooking process. Once cool, remove from the water and lay on kitchen towels. If you leave it in the water too long the asparagus may start to break down.

This salad is an easy way to ‘dress’ asparagus up. Prepared this way it is delicious with barbecued lamb and baby new potatoes just like we had for dinner last night

Grilled Asparagus Salad

500 grams asparagus

olive oil

sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Dressing

50 ml extra virgin olive oil

1-2 tablespoons chardonnay vinegar

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

lemon juice

1 tablespoon capers, drained and rinsed

1 egg, hard boiled and chopped

1 red onion, sliced

150 grams firm feta cheese, crumbled

a small handful Italian parsley, chopped

Blanch the asparagus quickly in boiling water to set the colour, remove and refresh under cold water. Transfer to paper kitchen towels to drain.

Preheat a barbecue or ridged grill.

Toss the asparagus gently with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill on the barbecue until nicely coloured and tender. Remove to a platter.

Toss the sliced onion with a little olive oil and salt and grill until golden and tender. Make a vinaigrette from the olive oil, vinegar and mustard and salt. Add a squeeze of lemon juice if more acid is required. Season with pepper and add the other ingredients. Combine gently and spoon on top of the asparagus.  Serve at room temperature.