Food with a View

Every week or so I receive a delightful email from a website called My Little Paris. This being my favorite city in the world it offers me a tiny slice of Paris in the middle of my busy week which I really enjoy. This week’s post divulged the best terraces and courtyards in Paris – peaceful, secluded places to enjoy a coffee or an aperitif in the sun or while looking at the view. There were sixteen in all and it got me thinking about whether Auckland offers any hidden gems of this type.

After-all, Auckland's climate, without real extreme's should be conducive to alfresco dining a good part of the year.

The first terrace that came to mind is the rooftop terrace at Tyler Street Garage and this was mainly because I’d just been there for lunch to sample the new menu. Everyone there was breathing a sigh of relief because after several days of terrible winter storms the sun was out, so much so that it was almost too hot on the roof. I suspect that was mainly due to the extra layers of merino most people were wearing.



TSG roof terrace at night

It was in fact rather blissful to sit there in the warm winter sun, looking out to the sparkling water on which a few mid-week sailors were tacking gracefully down the harbour to escape the city for a few hours.

It’s a slightly unusual view but not an unpleasant one. As part of the fabulous Britomart precinct Tyler Street Garage sits on Quay Street across from the wharfs where Lego block shaped ships divest their hulls of new and used cars. Today a ship was just leaving and the wharf was near empty, so it was rather peaceful. 

At other times, when the weather may not be quite so obedient, the outdoor fireplace adds warmth and a retractable roof provides shelter.

We were served a selection of dishes from the new menu by head chef Murray Wiblin which included their famous fried chicken, tempura oysters, now found everywhere but very well executed pulled pork sliders and a delicious seared tuna salad.

seared tuna salad

I had to leave before the spiced apple donuts with warm chocolate sauce were served but judging by this image they’d be worth a return trip.

Other terraces I love (though they’re not necessarily quiet and secluded as in Paris) can be found at NSP in Parnell, Soul Bar and Cibo.

There are probably others that I don’t know about so I’d love to hear where your favourite terraces or courtyards are – I will compile a list and share it.

Good Mother's Jam

More years ago than I care to remember (actually it was the late 70’s) I travelled around Europe for many months in an old VW Combi van that had been converted to a camper.

I attribute this time to the beginning of my complete and utter love affair with food. Even though I later realized the foundations for this had already been laid in the preceding years, this is what really led me on my chosen path.

As we travelled I discovered many new dishes and foods but one that has stayed firmly in my heart is a particular jam.

We bought a jar of this jam one day in a fairly ordinary epicerie. I remember it being very inexpensive – 5 francs comes to mind which I think was just over a dollar back then. It was a huge jar – at least 800 or 900 grams of apricot jam. I had of course eaten apricot jam before – my mother made it every year in fact – but this jam was very different to anything I’d experienced before.

What made it unique to me was the fact that it was full of whole apricots, some even with the stones still inside. It became a competition to see who could ‘land’ a whole apricot onto their toast. The brand of this spectacular jam was Bonne Maman which translates to ‘good mother’ and I have loved it ever since that day. I have carried numerous jars back from trips, hidden them at the back of the cupboard or fridge so I didn’t have to share and savoured each and every mouthful.

So you can imagine my delight when the brand appeared in New Zealand a few years ago. I am immensely grateful to La Fromagerie, the specialty French importer in Auckland, who imports the range of Bonne Maman jams. Fortunately their delightful café and epicerie is just around the corner from my house so I am assured of a ready supply.

The other day I was invited to breakfast at La Fromagerie to celebrate the re-launch of Bonne Maman jams on the NZ market. They’ll now be more widely available so everyone can enjoy them. It’s not only the contents which haven’t changed a bit. The jars are exactly the same as they were when I first discovered them – a traditional faceted jar with a red gingham lid and even the same hand written label.

The breakfast was a simple one designed so we could enjoy the jam as it is intended – with the best baguette and the best butter. There were also flakey croissant and soft buttery brioche to spread with jam as well. Along with excellent coffee it bought back many a memory of past breakfasts in France.  

When I had my Deli in the 80’s I used to make jam crostatas. My favorite will always be raspberry, but I remember I made them with whatever jam was seasonal at the time, including apricot, fig and also marmalade. Essentially a crostata is a free-form tart made with rich short pastry rolled out flat and spread quite thickly with jam. The edges are then tuned in over the top and it can be decorated with lattice strips or other shapes, such as the leaves I have used on this one here.

Bonne Maman jam is perfect for these tarts because it is made the real old fashioned way – with just fruit and sugar. I have found other jams too sweet and cloying. It’s such a simple dessert that takes no time to make. You can also make small individual tarts or crostata to serve for afternoon tea.

There are lots of other ways of course that you can use the Bonne Maman conserves and La Fromagerie has enlisted one of Auckland’s most talented young chefs, Ben Bayly, chef at The Grove, to design several dishes using the jams to show just how versatile they can be. You can find Ben Bayly’s dishes for venison, duck and quail, along with two desserts at http://www.mvauron.co.nz/food/bonne-maman-recipes.asp

In the meantime here’s my ultra easy Jam Crostata.

Jam Crostata – free form jam tart

1¾ cups flour

⅓ cup caster sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

100 grams butter, diced and chilled

finely grated zest of 1 lemon

1 egg plus 1 egg yolk

1-2 tablespoons chilled water

about 400 grams raspberry jam or jam of your choice

egg wash made from 1 egg yolk mixed with 1 tablespoon water

OR a little milk or cream

granulated sugar to garnish

Pastry: Put the flour, sugar and the salt in a food processor and pulse to blend. Add the butter and the lemon zest and process until it resembles coarse crumbs. Beat the egg, yolk and 1 tablespoon of the water together and add to the dough. Pulse until it just starts to come together, only adding the extra water if necessary. Tip onto the bench and gently bring together by hand to form a disc. The dough will feel quite sticky. Wrap and refrigerate until chilled.

Preheat the oven to 180°C and place a baking tray in the oven to preheat.

Roll the pastry out on a lightly floured bench to 2-3mm thick. Use a 30cm plate as a guide to cut out a circle. Transfer it carefully to a second, cold, baking tray lined with baking paper. Re-roll  the remaining pastry and cut out leaf shapes with a cutter or use a fresh picked leaf such as ivy as a template.

Spread the jam evenly over the pastry, leaving a 3cm border.

Flip the pastry border over the jam, pleating it gently to fit. Place the leaf shapes on top of the jam. Refrigerate the tart until firm then, just before baking, brush the edges ad leaves with egg wash or a little milk. Sprinkle lightly with sugar.

Place the baking sheet directly on top of the preheated one. This helps to give the base a burst of heat. Bake for 25 minutes or until golden and the pastry is thoroughly cooked. Set aside to cool.

To serve: Slide the crostata onto a board or serving plate. Serve with softly whipped cream if desired. If you don’t eat it all at once, it will keep airtight for a couple of days.

Serves 6-8

Autumn Delights

Most of us think of root vegetables as the ubiquitous carrots, parsnips, potatoes and turnips. But amongst this group exists some other delicious options, celeriac and jerusalem artichokes being two. Both lack the uniform shape and neatness of the more common root vegetables which may be why home cooks tend to shy away from them. However both are simple to prepare once you know how.

Celeriac

Celeriac, also known as celery root, belongs to the same family as celery, carrots and parsnip. Quite different to its cousins, this ugly ducking is a round bulbous corm with a brown warty exterior and small roots sticking out at all angles. Inside though, the crisp white interior has a flavour similar to celery.

Celeriac appears in autumn and tends to be available right through until spring. Look for examples that are not too huge as the larger ones can be soft in the centre. I prefer them about the size of a large potato. It should feel heavy and have a fresh appearance with still green stalks (generally the leaves have been removed).  Keep in the fridge for up to a week, although they will generally keep longer if stored at a low enough temperature.

During preparation treat celeriac as you would apples and once cut place the pieces in a bowl of acidulated water to prevent discolouration. Peel the celeriac thickly to remove all the warts and bumps then dice or slice as required for the recipe.

It can be eaten raw, as in the classic French remoulade, or baked, roasted or sautéed. Note that celeriac does not caramelise well as it is low in starch. My favourite way of serving it is as a purée, cooking it in salted water for 10-15 minutes and then mashing it exactly as I would for potatoes, with some butter, cream or olive oil and lots of salt and pepper.  

Jerusalem Artichokes

The jerusalem artichoke, also known as sunchoke, earth apple or by its French name of topinambur, causes much confusion. It is neither an artichoke nor is it from Jerusalem. It is in fact native to North America where it has been long known the Native Americans.  It's a species of sunflower and the thinking is that the name is a corruption of the Italian name for sunflower – girasole.

The brown tubers with purple hued knuckles look a little like fresh ginger. The crisp, white interior has a very similar flavour to that of a globe artichoke heart, nutty, sweet and quite delicious.

Like celeriac, Jerusalem artichokes are an autumn/winter vegetable. Select firm tubers with as few bumps and lumps as possible, so that peeling is easier and there is not too much waste. Store somewhere cool and dark, as you would potatoes.

Scrub and/or peel depending what you intend to do with them. Again, like celeriac, place in acidulated water to prevent discoloration.

They can be roasted whole in their skins, or steamed, boiled or sautéed. Once cooked, they tend to collapse, so careful attention needs to be given while cooking.

Jerusalem artichokes make a great soup, purée or gratin and are greatly enhanced by butter, cream, herbs. Serve roasted alongside roast beef or chicken. They can also be sliced thinly and eaten raw in salads or fried like potato crisps.

I made the soup at the weekend from what I had in the fridge and it was so delicious I thought I'd share it with you.

Jerusalem and Mushroom Soup

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 large shallots or one medium onion, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, crushed

2 or 3 rashers of streaky bacon, diced

4-5 large portobello mushrooms, sliced

500-600 grams Jerusalem artichokes (use more if there is a lot of wastage), peeled and diced

3-4 cups of good chicken or vegetable stock

sea salt and freshly ground pepper

cream and chopped parsley or chives to finish

Heat the olive oil gently in a heavy based saucepan and add the onion with a pinch of salt. Sauté until tender then add the garlic, bacon and mushrooms. Increase the heat a little in order to caramelise the bacon and mushrooms a little.

Add the artichokes, tossing to coat for a minute before adding the stock – enough to cover. Reserve the rest as you may want to thin the soup a little once it is puréed.

Bring to the boil, cover and reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook until the artichokes are soft when pierced with the point of a knife.

Allow to cool slightly then blend the soup until as smooth as possible. Adjust the seasoning and serve drizzled with a little cream and sprinkled with parsley or chives.

Serves 4

Dynamic Bio-Dynamics

My recent visit to South Australia for Tasting Australia was inspiring in more ways than one, but the one thing that really pushed my buttons was learning more about bio-dynamic (b-D) farming.

I’ve read a bit about it and a couple of years ago I visited a b-D winery on the Limestone Coast  and learned how they fill cow horns with dung and bury them to make something called 501 which they then mix with water (in a rather witch-like and very specific way) and spray on the vines.

There’s a lot more to it than that of course but it piqued my interest and dispelled any myths I might have harboured about hocus pocus and hippies. What I know just makes perfect sense – it’s about sustainably caring for the land, maximizing growing opportunities and producing food that is truly good for you.

Deb Cantrill from Nirvana Organics stirring her brew

Ulli Spranz and her husband Helmut converted their land at Paris Creek on the Fleurieu Peninsula over 30 years ago after they emigrated from Germany. They use cows’ milk from their own purely grass-fed herd and that of eight other b-D farms to make a wonderful range of yoghurt, fresh cheeses (I particularly liked the white moulded Nuage Blanc) and butter, plus a hard cheddar style.  If you visit at the right time of day, you can watch the cheese making process through large picture windows in the cheesery wall. Ulli’s enthusiasm and knowledge is so infectious you can’t help but leave all fired up about b-D.

To the east of Adelaide Deb Cantrill and Quentin Jones also decided to leave the city and create a ‘good life’ for themselves, settling on 4 hectares of blackberry infested land in the Adelaide Hills which they, very appropriately it would seem, call Nirvana.

Thirty years on their luscious valley produces an abundance of produce like chestnuts, berries, geese, and myriad unusual and forgotten fruits, such as medlar and gooseberries. The geese are not just there to look pretty. Not only do the geese keep the grass down (two geese do the work of one sheep), they tread lightly on the land with their webbed feet, minimizing damage. In addition, chickens roam free under the trees, koalas are occasionally seen perching in the gum trees and kangaroos come often to feast on the lush grass and drink from the many springs on the property. All this just 3 kilometres from the nearest town and surrounded by other homes.

Down the bottom of the garden, a grove of basket wicker trees (for Deb’s basket weaving) forms an outdoor room which in summer hosts gatherings around the central fireplace and in autumn mushrooms can be found growing underneath the orchard of hazelnut trees. 

Everything is designed to work together. The geese enjoy a diet enriched by chestnuts and other good things and when their ranks have swollen from 20 to 60, as happens each year, a plucking party is held. As they can’t be sold, anyone who plucks 3 birds gets to take one home.

Deb’s farmhouse cottage kitchen with its wood burning stove is registered for the production of jams, jellies, fruit pastes and vinegars which fill the shelves of the small farmgate shop. Eggs are available on a self serve basis down the drive at the chicken coops, next the carefully fenced vege garden. Quentin’s specialty is roasted chestnuts and he can be found every Saturday in the main street of Stirling serving these gorgeous treats in paper cones. Of course the chestnuts also make a delicious stuffing for a roasted goose.

Quentin roasting chestnuts for us to try

Tours of the farm and classes in bio-dynamics bring a steady stream of garden clubs, schools groups and heirloom fruit collectors.

Also in the Hills, in the historic town of Hahndorf, is another cheese producer using organic, b-D goat and cow milk to make great cheese. At Udder Delights store and café you can enjoy ‘picnic’ baskets of not only their cheeses, but other locally produced foods such as Hill’s Cider Co. Pear Cider, seasonal preserves and delicious glacé pears with vanilla and saffron. The goat curd and goat brie are not to be missed, as is their soft, mild blue. You can also take a cheese making class so you can make your own cheese at home. 

a selection of Udder Delights cheese

I don’t imagine I’ll be burying any muck filled cow horns any time soon in my square foot garden, although if anyone has a little bit of 501 they are willing to part with I’d be very happy to receive it.  However there are other b-D methods I can adopt such as planting by the moon, so I think I’ll start with that.

To learn more about the bio-dynamic principals of farming and growing check out this site

Eating South Australia

The first few days of Tasting Australia have been a whirlwind of reuniting with old friends (other TA stalwarts from all around the world), making the acquaintance of many other food and wine writers, touring, eating, sampling and wine tasting.

This is my fourth or fifth time at this amazing festival that celebrates South Australia's food and wine every two years and each time I come I am amazed at what this state has on offer.

The first two days were spent on the Fleurieu Peninsula and in McLaren Vale, two regions just to the south of Adelaide. 

What we did: Day 1

Visited a biodynamic cheese producer at Paris Creek, ate a delicious lunch of locally produced foods and some fine wines at the No 58 Cellar Door at Waverley Estate,

cruised the coast on a beautiful yacht, the Lady Eugenie, with Kangaroo Island Sailing while enjoying some excellent small bites, including these huge succulent prosciutto wrapped prawns, and a terrific KI semillon viognier

and watched the most beautiful sunset from the terrace of the renowned Star of Greece restaurant at Aldinga before dining on local squid and King George whiting - all washed down with myriad wines from the Vale Cru collective.

Back on the bus at eight the next morning: Day 2

The lovely Willunga Farmer's Market is 10 years old this year and just keeps getting better. On this sunny autumn morning it was a pleasure to wander the stalls, sampling all sorts of locally produced food such as fresh almonds, Kangarilla Creamery's goats curd, unsulphured dried apricots and sweet grapes. 

 

At Coriole Vineyards we tasted olive oils and olives before heading to Producers for a lesson in ricotta and mozzarella making and a relaxed lunch at the adjoining restaurant The Elbow Room.

The slow cooked Thai goat 'curry' was so good as was the Producers own Riesling and Grenache wines.

Last stop was Goodieson's Brewery, a small micro-brewery producing a selection of excellent beers. Judging by how busy their 'cellar' door was it's a popular brew.

What's New in Melbourne?

To me, Melbourne is one of the food Mecca’s of the world. However each time I visit it is not to return to my old favorite haunts but to experience what is new and exciting on the dining scene.

While there recently I sampled just a few of the latest restaurants to open.

The paint was barely dry at Pei Modern, Mark Best’s venture at the Sofitel Hotel on Collins Street when we popped in for a late breakfast. In a distinct departure from his Sydney fine dining eatery Marque, Pei Modern is, as the name suggests, contemporary in both style and menu.

We found the breakfast menu slightly disappointing, although the coffee and the house-made pastries were both perfectly passable. However a look at the dinner menu confirmed that this would be well worth a re-visit for dishes such as Dutch Creams (potatoes) Mojama, Coffee and Bone Marrow or Roast Rabbit, Salt Bush, Sea Parsley Wakame.

Albert Street Food and Wine opened a few months ago with Phillippa Sibley heading the kitchens. Located right up Sydney Street in an old bank, it’s been nicely decked out to incorporate a food store on one side where their own label preserves and olive oil are sold, alongside other tasty treats and Phillippa’s books.

A wood fired grill turns out delicious morsels like sardines with a Sicilian style salsa, a brochette of smoked mozzarella, anchovy and oregano or haloumi with green tomato relish and zucchini pickle (both of which, if you love them, you can buy next door). A pile of crunchy school prawns completed our feast.

Great bread, organic shaped and glazed dishes, wooden boards and the clever use of a metal stand so more plates can be accommodated on the small tables all contribute to the overall appeal. And, remembering Phillippa Sibley’s pedigree as a pastry chef, the dessert menu should not be ignored.

Andrew McConnell’s new Golden Fields sits behind a rather ordinary store front on St Kilda’s Fitzroy Street. Inside though you’ll find a smart space with a few subtle hints of the Orient here and there – just enough to indicate what might be on offer on the menu.

White tiles and a long marble bar down one wall, place settings waiting for diners to claim them, eclectically displayed vases of golden chrysanthemums and black lacquer chairs create an instant charm and I chuckled at the tiny goldfish decorated tin bucket the salt came in. Modern Asian is usually only ever good or bad but this is very, very good. With time to sample just two dishes I opted for a cold dish of shredded chicken, sesame paste, house-made flat rice noodles, and chilli oil. What was presented was a beautiful plate of tender poached chicken accented with the pale green of cucumber and coriander leaves. I swooned until the gentle kick of the chilli hit me. Perfect.

My other choice was the twice cooked duck with its clever crispy ‘skin’ of mung bean paste flavoured with Szechwan pepper. It came with plum sauce, black vinegar and three steaming buns into which I piled the duck, some cucumber sticks and plum sauce. Dipped in the vinegar this was just the best thing I’d eaten in a long time. This will definitely be on my ‘return to’ list.

The Atlantic on Southbank was in ‘soft opening’ phase when I was last in Melbourne a year ago but I decided to treat it as new anyway. We settled down in the Oyster Bar - dark wood, accents of turquoise and earthy pottery dishes - where the menu is a condensed version of the restaurant one but still with plenty to tempt us.

Three icy-cold Duck Bay oysters from Tasmania were amongst the best I’ve ever eaten  - even if, as I discovered later while chatting with chef Donovan Cooke, they’d been opened earlier that day and not just before serving as expected. The soft red wine vinegar and shallot dressing was perfect. Same couldn’t be said about the tired, cut yesterday, lemon wedge.

We bypassed the caviar and lobster in favour of some tasty grilled bug tails and a whole grilled garfish which came with just salt, pepper and lime.

The simplicity reminded me of how fish is served around the Med. A salad of shredded cos (yes shredded!) with orange, pinenuts and a miso dressing was quite a revelation.

So some good stuff and some not so good – I’d still recommend it though.

Also new and recommended but not tried so let me know what you think if you go to:

Senoritas for authentic Mexican
16 Meyers Place,  
(03) 9639 7437

San Telmo Argentinean cuisine

14 Meyers Place

(03) 9650 5525

Cheesy Discoveries

I love cheese and am hugely proud of the wonderful cheese we produce in New Zealand, even if I can’t take credit for any of them myself.

So I headed along to the CheeseFest last week, to sample the winning cheeses from this year’s national awards.

However when I got there I found myself attracted, not to the winners, but to some great examples that were new to me although no necessarily new to market.

Here they are in no particular order:

1/ Rose’s Haloumi with rosemary – fresh out of the pan this was the tastiest morsel I’d had all day. It was too busy for me to be able to chat to the makers and sadly their website is completely devoid of any info except to tell me they also have a butchery.

Email them info@ayyildiz.co.nz or phone 2711383 for stockists

2/ Over the Moon black truffle brie by cheesemaker Neil Willman was delicious – for a truffle lover like me anyway. They have sandwiched brie with truffle paste (sadly imported from Italy) but who’s complaining – this is a perfect marriage.

3/ Gruff Junction 'Darfield' – nicknamed ‘Earthquake’ cheese for the layer of ash that runs through the centre of this pyramid shaped goat's milk cheese. When cut it forms a seismic-like line, hence the name.

4/ Waiheke Island Cheese 'Paniora' Manchego – we all agreed this was a very good rendition of this famous Spanish sheep’s cheese – nutty with a salty tang. They even use authentic Manchego moulds which give the weave pattern on the outside.

5/ Neudorf Mt Crusader – a handcrafted sheep’s milk cheese. This fresh soft cheese has a delicate flavour with just a hint of acidity – could serve it on toasts in a salad or with ripe stone fruits or berries for breakfast.  

And lastly…

6/ Clevedon Valley Buffalo Company Feta – a lovely creamy lightly salted feta which I immediately thought would be great melted and slightly caramelised.